Note to my readers: The site Lighthearted Travel is closing its doors. For that reason, I’m taking one of my essays from that site and putting it here. I hope you enjoy it. This was a travel article I wrote soon after coming home from Bhutan. Remember that most photos can be enlarged by double-clicking on the picture. And if you are new to this blog, your first comment needs to be approved by me, thereafter you can leave comments that will be visible right away.
As far as the book goes, I’m excited to meet with a book designer this week to discuss the cover—it’s very exciting. At the same time, I need to get the stories copy edited to make sure there isn’t a single misplaced comma or hyphen. So easy to miss those things after you’ve been working on something so long! After that, the book goes live on Amazon and on to this site. Subscribers, you will receive a link to download the ebook for free.
May you have some pleasure in between all your gardening and writing tasks to enjoy photographs of a most picturesque country, and beautiful genuine people in the tiny country of Bhutan.
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It was eight years ago that we discovered the magical Kingdom called Bhutan. A tiny Asian country with its back to the world for centuries, Bhutan is changing. The word is out on the beauty there and the country is responding with plans to welcome more and more visitors.
When the King of Bhutan said years ago that “gross national happiness is more important to him that gross national product” the comment got a lot of attention. Most of us could use a little more gross national happiness at the moment. The thought of a country where happiness is the coin of the realm seems too good to be true.
Bhutanese people who are old enough to remember have a story about the “scissor-pants man.” The story goes like this: an old woman was working in her fields in the central Bumthang valley when she saw something that frightened her. There in the middle of her buckwheat field was something that looked like a man, but with a body like a pair of scissors—mowing down her buckwheat as he walked. The old woman called out to her family—everyone should bring stones and sticks and defend their buckwheat against the giant scissors!
The “giant scissors” was a lanky German tourist taking photographs. The old Bhutanese woman had never seen a man wearing pants before. Bhutanese men wear—even to this day—a kimono-like dress with long sleeves called a Gho.
When did this happen? Only about thirty years ago.
The Bhutanese have seen a lot of people wearing pants since then and are adapting everyday to the increase of tourism in their tiny country. For a country of 700,000 people, with a developing infrastructure, it is taxing. There is one major road from the one airport in Paro to the central and eastern parts of the country. Unless you are a true mountain adventurer, trekking in unmapped regions with your own Bhutanese crew—a much more difficult and remote experience than trekking in Nepal for example, you will be on that mountain road.
Lhaden, which means daughter of God, has agreed to have her picture taken. English is the second language of Bhutan and most people, especially children, love to try it out. Photography is one of those things that can open doors or close them and in Bhutan—where people have so little artifice—it is especially true.
Lhaden wants to know all about family planning in America. As the eldest of seven children, she knows she wants to do things differently, but for now, she has to help raise her siblings. Maybe she will go to college, she says. It is free for all children whose grades are good. One of the greatest pleasures of a visit to a remote country like Bhutan is a visit to a rural school to leave gifts with the Headmaster and meet the children. The Bhutanese government doesn’t want tourists giving gifts to children which encourages begging. But a visit to a school with welcome gifts such as sewing kits, simple books in English, colored paper and pens is something you’ll never forget.
At the Punakha Dzong (fortress/monastery), there are young red-robed monks with saffron collars standing near red and gold prayer wheels. We ask if we may take a picture. They immediately begin to play, pretending to throw one of their brethren over the monastery wall. We have seen this light-hearted playfulness everywhere in Bhutan, juxtaposed with a shy, polite manner.
This side of Buddhism is dyed in the wool here. Religious rituals are performed at all occasions of life; and the monks and nuns of Bhutan are seen everywhere. There is profound worship of the Buddha, the Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambava), and the Shabdrung, the religious leader whose unification of Bhutan created the country as it is today. In addition, there is a pantheon of deities and different manifestations of deities the study of which makes String Theory look easy! But perhaps the 15th century monk, Drukpa Kunley, known by Bhutanese as The Divine Mad Monk, best explains the charming combination of devotion and whimsy. Drukpa Kunley is said to be the most popular figure in Bhutanese history, his legendary adventures known to everyone. While Buddhism was being spread throughout the country, The Divine Mad Monk became known for his shocking, un-monk-like behavior, singing and teaching the religion in non-traditional ways.
Along with important icons of the Bhutanese culture—the snow leopard, the dragon, the tiger, the garuda (a mystical bird), there are penises drawn on some buildings and penises carved in wood hanging from the four corners of some houses, along with a carved sword, which signifies the cutting away of ignorance. The symbol of the penis, which our guide called “thunder dorje”, has important meaning for the Bhutanese. It is protection for the home. The legends surrounding thunder dorje stem from—you guessed it—Divine Mad Monk. Apparently he used dorji (“thunderbolt” in Bhutanese) to subdue various and sundry demonesses. Whatever the truth of the unruly behavior of Divine Mad Monk, most men adore hearing they have an intimate appendage, a thunder dorje, instead of the standard issue.
Whatever takes you to Bhutan, it is the people who may draw you back. If there is a Shangri-La, it lives in the hearts of these peaceful lovers of life. You may go to Bhutan to trek in the pristine mountains, to see the magnificent hand-loomed fabrics, marvel at world-class archery—it is the national sport. You may want to see the botanical paradise that is Bhutan with rice paddies and subtropical groves of bananas and mango giving way to unique orchids, rhododendron, juniper, magnolia, Blue Himalayan Pine and Himalayan Yew. Maybe you’ll go for the festivals or the deep rumbling chant of red-robed monks at prayer. For many, it will be the 770 recorded bird species, including quite a few that are globally threatened.
Whatever takes you there, I’m guessing that the people will also take hold and live on in your memory. As Lhaden said when we spoke our farewell: “Madam, wish you happy!”
For traveling in Bhutan
–Take a good headlamp and/or reading light. Lights are sporadic and dim.
–Plenty of antiseptic hand wipes
–Ear plugs at night to muffle the sound of barking dogs
–Hard candies for the long drives and dry mouth at high altitudes
–Medication for carsickness if you are prone. Mountain roads are one switchback after another.
–Hiking poles for the day hike to Taktsang Monastery, known as The Tiger’s Nest. This site, one of the most important in all the Himalayas, clings to a vertical granite cliff and is reached by a narrow, twisting trail, a real leg-burner.
Now, for your memories…what was the most exotic and/or challenging trip you have taken? Did it change your perception of this wide world of ours? (I also know that I don’t have to go far from home to see the world with new eyes.)
Photo credit: Photos by Patrick Troccolo
Susan, What a fascinating look at a place most of us will never go! I wonder how much Bhutan has changed since you visited, and what its challenges are now. It would be interesting if you could go back and see it again.
Yes, I often wonder if the country has managed its natural resources, especially since its neighbor, Nepal, was not able to. One thing you may find of interest is that Bhutan provided electrical power to the most remote villages so that people did not burn wood and ultimately destroy the forests. It is very sad to see the loss of forest in Nepal because the people have no other choice, but to chop down trees. Wise governance, so rare. But don’t get me started…
Oh it does seem like Shangri-La there. And the Mad Monk seems quite a hoot. I have never traveled to anywhere quite as exotic. I have been to Ireland and Capri and all over the US. But wherever I go, I tend to find happy places….
Yes, for awhile the news media was all agog about “Shangri-La”, but of course any country has big challenges the moment it is discovered. All you can do as a tourist is leave a light footprint. We were even told not to bring things for the children as it could encourage begging, but to bring books and pens and pencils instead. Isn’t that just right? Divine Mad Monk WAS quite a hoot apparently…
Sound like such a wonderful trip! I’ve never done anything remotely like that.
I didn’t realize you were so close to finishing up a book. I’ve kind of put the cart ahead of the horse and researched the publishing and marketing, even though I’m not done yet. The publishing itself is darn expensive if you do it right with all the professional editing. I read back to a previous post, where you raised question on social marketing. I only have a personal FB page that non-friends can select to follow. But I think I might run into problems with FB not allowing you sell or market from such a page. Instagram doesn’t currently allow links, although some people do give the link address. I also use Twitter, Google+ (auto-post to it), and Pinterest (mostly only for personal use right now).
Good luck with your prepublishing adventure!
Hi Maery Rose, so nice to see you here. I can tell you its been quite a journey for me, making the decision to self-publish. Fortunately, there are outstanding resources available now. I’m close to putting an ebook up on Amazon, short stories that are a taste of what will come. Subscribers will get the book for free. I still have a lot of writing yet to do. What I ultimately did with FB was to choose an Author Page, which allows you to market. (A personal profile does not.) I need to figure out how to auto-post to Google+. As a tip, check out http://www.TheBookDesigner.com. A wealth of information.
It’s hard to believe there are still remote places like this still clinging to a past life, Susie, isn’t it. It’s not the same as the Amish in our own country. It’s lack of infra-structures and access.
When I worked with the Campa Pajonal indigenous Indians of Peru back in the ’60s, I couldn’t believe how set apart they were from the real world. They didn’t even have their own written language (which was the main reason why I was there as a missionary linguist).
Most fascinating. You can count yourself very privileged to have made that trip!
You are so right Ginnie, it is lack of infrastructure and access. There is one east/west road through the country, that is IT. I would love to talk with you sometime about your work as a missionary linguist. I am completely fascinated by that work. I do believe we were very privileged to have visited Bhutan, just with two couples as well. It allowed us an intimacy with the people that might not have been possible otherwise. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts Ginnie.
What a fabulous opportunity! We all have our lists of “places I would go if money wasn’t an object.” Bhutan isn’t at the top of my list, but if I had more funding, it would definitely be on my “someday” bucket list. Hmmm … most exotic and/or challenging trip … Most challenging was probably Italy (oh, my goodness, we had so many stories!). Most exotic? Well, I’ve mostly traveled in the U.S., so maybe Italy, or Hawaii … or tent camping in the wilds of Wyoming. Good luck as you continue your book project!
I’d love to hear your stories of Italy–how about an extra post about some of those stories? Or the camping in the wilds of Wyoming? Yikes. You are a brave girl. It wasn’t exactly on my bucket list either, but it was on Patrick’s—hubby—and the more we planned, the more excited I became. Thank you for visiting Beth, I always love your comments.
These are some wonderful photos of smiling faces and awesome scenery!
Hi Bettyl, I was hoping someone would mention those beautiful smiling faces. Thanks as always for your visit here. How are things in NZ these days?
Well the book is on it’s way how very exciting for you Susan! Bhutan would be a dream of mine to visit, I never knew you went there. It is said to be the greenest country in the world….in terms of managing resources and energy….such gorgeous faces you captured…..Shangri La indeed it is!
Hey Catherine, I should have a link for you soon for the promo stories. Yes, “himself”—love that!—and I traveled a lot for a time. I guess we did a lot of the big adventures early and now I’m glad because I don’t know if I would have the energy to do them now. At least the heavy climbing. Somebody, get that woman a donkey! Or a yak! Catherine, it IS truly one of the greenest countries in the world for just the reasons you mention. The King was Oxford educated and is brilliant. (Four wives however-:))
Susan, thank you for this very interesting reading about Bhutan and its people. Knowing about other cultures and their different attitudes teaches me a lot and changes my perception of the world even without being there though the personal experience is much more impressive…
I think it was quite different to travel to such destination at the time when tourists were scarce there and now when so many more people travel and visit various countries, you were lucky and courageous to experience that time. There are so many tourists everywhere now, aren’t there?
I was hoping that people would find it interesting to see this amazing culture and people. And you are right, it was so different to be there with very few tourists. We traveled in a van with four friends, a driver and a guide. Very rare experience, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Let me tell you the food WAS a courageous experience. The people of Bhutan consume chilis like you wouldn’t believe. I imagine that it keeps them healthy. They also chew some kind of betel juice that makes the old men’s teeth reddish-purple! And because no animal is ever harmed, there are dogs barking barking barking all night long. Wild in so many ways. I don’t have the same attitude about travel as I did even ten years ago. So…lucky? Yes.
Susan, I so enjoyed reading about your experiences in Bhutan. Leo and I are planning a trip to Nepal next year with one of his co-worker friends who is from there is going back “home” on vacation. But we are now adding Bhutan as a stop on that trip. The photos are beautiful, but the country they are pictures of is the real thing! Awakening experience, no doubt! Love your blog… the conversation is great and the site is beautiful, just as you are…
Hi Sharon! It is so great to see you here. I hope you’ll dig into some of the archives too. There is one under the cancer balloon that is called “When the mind is NOT your friend.” I think you will relate. Wow, you are considering going to Bhutan as well. That would be extraordinary. It is a spendy trip, but oh so worth it. We flew into Bangkok and then into Paro. We had trekked in Nepal in 1992, geez it was amazing but hard, about 10 miles a day, sometimes straight UP! I’m going to respond to your personal note tonight. Thanks for your kind words…
What a beautiful face…..such gorgeous people.
I remember reading about the gross national happiness:)
What a wonderful thing…..stirred my heart to go there,
you did:)
Cheering you on with your book
and grateful for a peek into this lovely culture,
Jennifer
Yes. Aren’t they stunningly beautiful faces? That “Gross National Happiness” statement made big news for awhile, but I don’t think the right people ever took it seriously. And of course, it is small country and a Kingdom at that, not even a massive country. Even California has a GNP bigger than most countries. I’m so grateful to have you along with me on this road Jennifer–I need those cheers and never take them for granted. I can’t wait to share the first book with you.
Hi Susan, what wonderful photographs, and a lovely and evocative portrait of a country that I have found intriguing for several years now. I hope that their unique culture is strengthened, not eroded, but greater exposure to people from the so-called developed nations of the world.
Thank you Janet, I appreciate that you enjoyed reading about Bhutan. I wish the photos had turned out better on the blog, but the resolution was lost in the transfer, still you get the idea. We thought a lot about our “footprint” before we went and inquired into the best way to visit as respectful guests. One thing you will like to know is that Bhutan only allows a certain number of Visas each year, they are really controlling how many people can visit at a time. I love that. It minimizes the strain on the resources, plus there is only one road west to east in the country! They simply can’t support much tourism and that is a good thing.
Just hearing the phrase “gross national happiness” cheers me up.
It makes me want to travel abroad and live in such a culture.
I have just returned from an exotic challenging trip- to Havasupi Falls
in the Grand Canyon. It’s a 10 miles hike in- to a campground by the Falls and then
visits to other Falls that include a rather “sketchy” climb down a very steep
ladder. The Supai’s are clearly a different culture. Hard to return to Mall-land.
My favorite trip would still be walking the Compestello de Santiago in Southwest France.
It was such a remote part of the world-Finding my high school French worked was an added
bonus that made me feel welcome there. I’ll start looking for a trekking trip to Bhutan
and will consider whether or not to wear pants….
Hi John! I would love to take the trip you just took. Although we’ve spend a lot of time in the American Southwest, I have yet to see the Grand Canyon–how is that possible? I bet you had a powerful experience there and I’d love to know more. I can’t imagine hiking it though as you did, you are a very experienced hiker, me? Not so much. Now you’ll have to correct me: I thought you did take that pilgrimage walk at Santiago de Compostella, did I have an incorrect memory? BTW, you cracked me up when you wrote that when you go to Bhutan you will consider whether or not to wear pants…funny guy. However, you will HAVE to take up archery on a long trip to Bhutan, it’s the national sport-:) BTW, where are you now?
Wow! I would love to go there. How amazing to live in a country where happiness is taken so seriously. We definitely have a lot to learn from them.
Isn’t that the truth..to have a ruler of a country value happiness for his people above all things. I understand that it could only happen in a smaller country, but we definitely have a lot to learn. We are so money driven in the U.S., I wonder if it will be the death of us. You would have the loved the adventure I think..and aren’t the children amazing? They have free education *through* college if their grades are good. (Sorry it took me so long to get back with you Tammy…with mom dying, my schedule is nothing like normal right now.)
I’m so sorry about your mom. 🙁