Susan Troccolo

Portland’s Japanese Garden

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Japanese Maple and Azalea tree

The temple bell stops but I still hear the sound coming out of the flowers.  –Basho

The Japanese Garden of Portland, Oregon sits on 5.5 acres of lush tranquility just at the outskirts of a busy city. Open year round due to the mild climate of Portland, it has been proclaimed the most authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan by its former Ambassador to the United States, His Excellency Nobuo Matsunaga. Portland’s sister city, Sapporo, Japan, gave the garden an antique 5-tiered deep red stone which sits near the entrance.

Japanese gardens have ancient histories based on Shinto, Buddhist and Taoist philosophies. The creators of the garden sought to create a sense of harmony, peace, and tranquility in all of the five different gardens which encompass the whole. I feel that harmony each time I visit; no matter the season. Even in the coldest day of winter, the care with which the garden has been designed fills me with stillness and attention.

The brochure from the garden says it best: “Three primary elements are used in every Japanese garden design: stone, which represents the “bones” of the garden, water, the life-giving force; and plants, the tapestry of the four seasons. Other important elements include stone lanterns, water basins, arbors, and bridges.”

It took me awhile to realize that—although the garden backs up into verdant mountains and waterfalls—the scale of each garden is purposefully created to reflect human nature. That human scale is visible throughout, from the pathways, to the Tea Garden. It is hoped that each person entering the garden will stop and quiet their thoughts enough to allow the garden to affect them, to touch them lightly.

Summer is the busiest time in the garden, but I prefer the early spring, when azaleas and fruit trees are just awakening, but I can still see the bones. The garden is lit in the fall because of the abundance of Japanese maples that thrive in Portland.

Winter is stark.

I can nearly see the outlines of a hooded monk carrying his pail of water…just rounding the corner. Shhh. Do you see him? His robe is worn and bare at the sleeves now. He struggles with the weight of the pail, as he is old. He is in silence.

Moonbridge collage

The Strolling Pond Garden features the authentic Moon Bridge. I wrote a tribute there on the bridge when I touched the decorative bronze “cap” at each corner. They are rubbed soft with the hands of many crossings, with the hands of many pilgrims like my hooded monk. At the lower bridge, you can see the symbols of longevity: the tortoise and the Cranes, made from bronze; eloquent in their delicacy, and looking like life itself.

Lacquerware boxes with harp collage

Today, the Pavilion within the Tea Garden is hosting a special event. An artist, Kazumi Murose, who is called a “Living National Treasure of Japan” has brought his exhibition of urushi meaning lacquer. The exhibit is entitled “Urushi: Masterpieces of Lacquerware.” The Pavilion is being made ready for music later, as the guests wander and admire the art.

Murose is known for a technique called maki-e, which sprinkles gold and silver into the lacquer, and raden, inlaid mother-of-pearl. I am struck by the gold in the black lacquer.

The Flat Garden is just outside of the Pavilion. It is a sea of combed sand. The two small islands of plantings in the sand depict a sake’ cup and gourd-shaped bottle. According to the brochure, these “signify pleasure and a wish for the visitor’s happiness.” They appear to float in the sea of sand.

Natural Garden collage

Walking further along the simplicity of The Natural Garden, I stop just to sit and be still with my own thoughts. The garden has many corners with benches, waterfalls, and shallow streams. Trees, shrubs, ferns and mosses grow in their natural form. There is a small wooden structure at the base of the trail to the Sand and Stone garden, where a visitor can sit and reflect.

Authentic Japanese gardens and Zen monasteries usually feature this style of garden. There, in simplicity, are weathered stones rising from a bed of white gravel, also designed to look like the sea. It is often the work of initiates to maintain the perfectly combed look of the “garden”. This one is surrounded by exquisite stone tiles that keep the energy of the garden contained. Benches around the perimeter are for those who wish to sit for a long time.

Sand and Stone Garden collagex1000

After leaving the Sand and Stone Garden and making your way back up towards the Pavilion, the visitor is often graced with a view of Mount Hood rising above the City of Portland below.  I see people trying to capture the feeling of the white-capped mountain after the grounding experience of the garden. It is nearly impossible to do.

Today

Today I saw something the gardener wanted–the perfect peony framed in the perfectly arched moon gate.

I could easily have missed it, but the gardener was a master and a tickler of consciousness.

First there were stones; different stones on the pathway, a little sharper than the stones only seconds before, heightening my senses, but for what?

My senses became alive. Soon the handrail of the bridge was soft and polished, it cradled the plump places of my hand. Gardener I began to suspect you.

You had something for me. Something you had spent years in the making? Once and only once in perfection: the glowing elegance of one pink peony, framed in the center of the moon gate.

Next year, the peony will be too tall. But today Gardener, today, I understand.

 – Susan Troccolo

 

Dear Readers, when you visit Portland, I hope you will make the Japanese Garden a priority for your visit. It is an extraordinary place in our city. Let me invite you to visit our host for In a Vase on Monday–Cathy at Rambling in the Garden and see what she and others are sharing this week.

Comments

  1. How very, very beautiful.
    I adore Japanese gardens. The attention to detail, the serenity, and the creation of beauty speak loudly to me. I love the respect for seasons, and the acceptance of imperfection.
    Thank you so much for featuring this one.

    • Thank you Soosie. I can imagine from your words about what interests you in this life, that you would love the serenity of a Japanese Garden. I didn’t write about Wabi Sabi, the acceptance of imperfection, but it is all around in a garden such as this. Thank you for visiting, I love reading your ‘take’ on the world.

  2. Harmony, peace, and tranquility – what more could we want for the world? Thanks for sharing. ps I always thought the adverts were the downside of WordPress being free – if you upgrade to a paid version you don’t get them

    • Yes, you are right. The free version is an open book for advertisers. But I have the paid version and I pay extra on top of that for extra security, so no one who visits this site and leaves comments ever has to worry. I’ll put in a call to my site host, I’m sure it’s something small. It was my aim not to have a lot of extra things on the site, to keep it clean looking. I know I like that in other sites I visit.

    • Michelle, it is a painter’s paradise. From the koi to the trees to the special moon bridge made by Japanese artisans. I’m glad it gave you some good memories-:)

    • I know you are a regular there. Do you find it is a place that helps you write? I’ve always had the imagination that I could sit with a notebook and write there, but it has never worked out that way. Instead, I just draw stillness from the place and bring it home. But I’ve love to think that I could write there…..there really is no ideal “place”, is there? It’s still putting pen to paper or fingers to keyboard wherever…

      • I know what you mean–the Japanese Garden is a place for reflection rather than for writing inspiration in the moment. But I like the idea of sitting quietly, notebook in hand, while I allow the mind’s mud to settle and perhaps a poem to arise. Nice thought, I believe I’ll try it. You too?

  5. I really loved the Japanese garden and would really enjoy seeing it again when I had a lot more time to really explore. Thanks for the reminder of a beautiful day. 🙂

    • I am SO glad they included this garden in your tour of Portland gardens. It makes sense that they would, but I didn’t recall that you had seen it. Come on back Tammy! We’ll have our own tour and stop on the benches just to sit and Be.

  6. I’d heard that it is perhaps the most highly touted Japanese garden in N.A. I’d love to see it someday! We have another fabulous, prize-winning Japanese garden right here in the Midwest: The Anderson Japanese Gardens in Rockford, Ill. (http://www.andersongardens.org). I was amazed at how beautiful it was–even in the summertime when it was mostly green. Great photos and thanks for the tour!

    • What a beauty of a garden you shared! Thank you…beautiful photograph from their brochure. I noticed that the Siberian Iris featured in the photo of the Anderson garden was just like the long section of Siberian Iris in deep blue also in the Portland garden (growing in shallow water)—I just didn’t photograph that section because it wasn’t in bloom at the times I went. About your post regarding bloggers you admired, I found myself hoping I was in there somewhere! (Couldn’t help myself.) I also thought about my own favorites. Very nice idea Beth. It is so great to be opened to more of the world through the words and photographs of talented bloggers around the world.

  7. When the garden bloggers had their fling their last year, they all talked about this garden. I would love to see it in person….a favorite garden type and such incredible simple beauty. Thanks for sharing this and the work of Kazumi Murose. Just beautiful. And I especially loved your, Today!

    • Donna, I’m so glad you noticed the quasi poem I wrote while at the garden. I felt the presence of the gardeners so deeply. And I wondered if we do that at times, consciously plant something just for ourselves, just so we will see it in a particular light, in a particular season. And I believe we do. It’s one of the reasons I love the company of other gardeners–they get it.

  8. Most probably I will never visit the Portland’s Japanese Garden but your soothing words brought its feel to me. Moreover, your post inspired me to visit the botanical garden in Prague where I was ages ago and if I’m not much mistaken there also used to be a small Japanese garden. In a month or two it could be great destination!

    I like Japanese gardens, especially their bridges and those areas of combed sand or white gravel, they look so peaceful and well-considered.

    • Had I known there was a botanical garden in Prague, I surely would have gone there! I’m glad that my post inspired you to go there Petra. Especially with your camera in tow. Yes, I am fond of this style of garden as well, the bridges especially. And this one has such a lovely tea house for artists and events.

  9. Perfectly glorious trek through the garden with you….I could feel
    the peace begin to fold me into the smooth lines and quiet voice of the
    Gardener…..thankyou for helping still my breath this un-still evening:)
    -Jennifer

    • It is good to hear I was with you on an un-still evening. I do not take it for granted that we can do that for each other at times. I will tell you that your zines have a permanent place in my office Jennifer. And your name, it reminds me of a beautiful Jenny, my cousin,(like a daughter) who I lost. So I am partial. To you, and to what you write and how you stay in touch. Thank you.

      • Hi Susie..I am sorry but I don’t know which post you wanted to link in with this week’s Nature Notes. This post was linked into last week’s Nature Notes already. The previous post was linked into the previous week. ..Michelle

    • Hi Laura, So glad you visited for the tour (and my imaginary old Japanese gardener-:) It is a perfect garden for meditation in all seasons. I spent some enjoyable time on your site today, but will leave word for sure next time. I’m trying to work on my book and am running into procrastination!

    • I do feel fortunate to visit this garden. I have seen it in all four seasons, but I wish I could tell you that it is a regular place for me to go in town. It’s funny, but sometimes the most spectacular places in your own city get short shrift. That’s why I wanted to highlight it in this post. Thank you for visiting!

  14. I can see how to do this “right” one would need at least a day to stroll, sit, meditate, rest, pray, sing, hum, muse…. I can picture you there, Susie, being filled up. Thanks for sharing the beauty with us!

    • Ginnie, Hi! You are right….that would probably be the best way to see the garden. Sometimes I go in winter just for that reason, or during the “shoulder” seasons between the big show of color, be it spring azaleas or the orange of the Japanese Maples in fall. I like the imagery of being filled up. That sure happens for me when I take Journeys with you two, even though I can only imagine what I’m seeing on the screen….

  15. I love the communication between the writer and the gardener in “Today”. I will think
    of this next time visiting such a place…..the creator’s goals. I will appreciate its
    pleasures more. I can’t remember if I saw these Gardens- I may have. I still talk of the amazing gigantic park in Portland and how one can do an all day hike and feel far away
    from a modern city. Last week in Michigan with very cold temps and snow….I’m Oregon
    Dreamin!

    • Thank you for noticing that John. It was what I was hoping people would notice, the creator’s goal’s, as you put it so well. I guess all artists and artisans have something they hope will be seen and comprehended by others who know their craft, their art. This one facet of art based on eastern principles seems so different from our throw-away American culture. How to explain it? That something would be designed and built for the pleasure of a moment and that that would be sufficient. I’m thinking now of the mandalas I’ve seen made and swept away in a moment. The beauty was the journey. I know you know exactly what I’m talking about. How funny to be Oregon dreamin’….but it’s true! It was 63 degrees here today and will be that way again this weekend after a day or two of refreshing rain that we all are waiting for! Nobody wants to water in February. It’s nuts. I can only imagine how chilly it must be for you there in Michigan, I hope the work is satisfying. When you come again to Portland, we will *definitely* go to the Japanese Garden, it’s part of Forest Park, one of the country’s largest urban forest reserves.

    • I’ve noticed a spark of the same flavor of a Japanese Garden in your own spaces…something about clean quiet lines. I could see you putting in a woven fence; that is really a terrific idea Diana. I HAVE discovered Denise’s Japanese Garden in Holland! I should have thought to translate it, I’ve just enjoyed her photos and the peacefulness there. Thanks for the tip, I’ll visit her again and maybe send her this link too. She might like it.

    • Thanks for visiting Bettyl! Yes, our Japanese Garden is famous in the U.S. and maybe outside the country for all I know. If I’m not mistaken, you lived in the U.S. before going to New Zealand?

    • Hi Sallie, I just found your note…I hadn’t received record of it before. I’m so glad you found the essence of the article matched your experience. That is the best compliment of all. Cheers to your visit! May you return many times.